Alpine savvy series anchor. steep ice technique .

Alpine savvy series anchor Read More Rock Climbing 2 , First Steps 1 John Godino 1/14/20 Rock Climbing 2 , First Steps 1 John Godino 1/14/20 Apr 3, 2025 · You need to use some skinny 5 mm cord for some kind of anchor building or application that it's not really designed for, and you want to squeeze some extra strength from your material. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. With an anchor leg angle of around 30° or less, each leg gets approximately 50% of the load. Unfortunately, this would also mean leaving behind a lot of cord that ultimately becomes garbage. the anchor can) . Climber, Dale Bard, first ascent, Sea of Dreams, El Capitan, 1978) . For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like a hook or carabiner lets the last person to simply clip and lower off; more efficient and lower risk. If you rappel smoothly on a dynamic rope, the anchor will only see about 1-2 kN, and the direction of force will always be down. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. When you’re pulling, 1 unit of tension goes to the anchor. For a stout tree like this, you need about 2 meters of cord for each strand. Let’s learn some new anchor setups! Jul 16, 2021 · Alpine terrain can offer single point anchors like a rock horn or tree. You are now secure to the anchor, with 7 meters of rope between you and the tree. com for 400+ tips like this. Inspiring mountain photography. (Photo by Dave Diegelman, shared with permission. May 15, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Alpine Anchors - 14:43 (If you're going to watch just one video on gear anchors, this is a great choice) How To Build A Three Piece Anchor - 4:01. Sometimes at a busy anchor, you may have a rope on top of another one, and those two ropes need to trade places. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and Jun 18, 2024 · The progress capture on a hauling system does not necessarily need to be on the anchor. Pull up about 7 meters of rope. Summary of a 2:1 MA system: 2 units of tension go to the load. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. Nov 25, 2022 · The old school series anchor . (In the photo below, I’m not using a pulley. The historical photos/diagrams are amazing and his writing is solid, definitely worth a look. Jan 2, 2023 · Doing this lets them stand up and move around to make the anchor, while being secure and no longer clipped to a fixed loop of rope. Alpine Savvy. Your choice of where to put it can make a difference in your ease of hauling. An extended rappel also makes it easier to pre-rig a rappel– see this excellent post from Alpine Savvy for more on that. Premium Members get even more. Method 1: Series anchor with sling and double loop bight knot. Here's an elegant way to do this: the "revolving door" technique. Dec 3, 2024 · Here's the tricky part: because there's already a load on anchor #1, it can be difficult to get the length of the sling or cord from anchor #2 JUST right to have proper load equalization / sharing. ) When hauling with a 2:1, if the pull strand is not redirected, the anchor should see about 2–3 kN at most. There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. (To add another interesting variable to this, if there's any sort of ledge or friction between you and the anchor, that will further reduce load on the anchor. Provided it’s unquestionably strong, here’s an elegant way to use these single point anchors. The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. . Premium Article available Jun 9, 2024 · Let’s look at a few ways to make a series anchor. Check it out Jan 8, 2024 · An extended rappel offers many benefits over rappelling from the belay loop on your harness. If you want to do something involving possible LARGE forces, such as pulling your car out of the ditch, dropping a big tree limb, or detaching a wrapped Nov 21, 2023 · The series anchor, which offers redundancy but not equalization, is not a new concept. We had an early start, there were streams for water on the approach and hike back, it was going to stay light late into the evening, and the weather forecast was dry and sunny. Is trying to “equalize” the load a mandatory principle for Feb 27, 2025 · The belay anchor general principle of striving for “three good pieces“ doesn’t necessarily apply to a rappel anchor. e. Have each rappel anchor simple to build and easily strong enough to rappel on. . Leave a minimum of gear behind Jul 22, 2019 · Build your anchor on the tree. Between using aid ladders and this extra rope, you should have enough room to swing around and set up your ledge. It's useful for all kinds of things. If you have it on a fixed strand of rope, you can simplify your rigging, reduce friction, and lower the load on the anchor. There is a faster, easier, and often equally safe solution: the "alpine anchor. This post covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, and how anchor hardware can twist your rope. Here's one way to set it up for 2:1 crevasse rescue. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. ) Strong anchor, simple (easy to inspect) completely redundant, fast to tie, zero extension if a sling were to fail, and a pair of (pretty darn well) equalized connection points. ) This anchor is a fine choice when you have a pair of decent bolts. For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Aug 1, 2018 · You need to move around a lot when you're setting up your ledge. To increase anchor security and longevity, consider using one or even two V-threads. These can be equalized to a master point or simply in series where one takes the load while the other exists as a backup. When you're pulling, you are supporting some of the load with your hand, so that gets subtracted from the load on the anchor. How to Set Up an Anchor Using a Master Carabiner - 3:00 Apr 14, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. What are some advantages? Fairly inexpensive (especially compared to a 240 cm Dyneema sling, which some climbers prefer over a standard cordelette) Dec 23, 2022 · Like any anchor, redundancy is important, so rappelling from two equalized V-threads might make sense in some situations. Nov 1, 2024 · Pass the sling through a carabiner on the anchor, and let the sling hang down below the anchor. Here's one method to equalize two placements for a retreat anchor: Stopper and a piton, about 2 meters of 6 mm cord, flat overhand bend to connect the ends, girth hitch master point, cheapskate locker: good to go! Practice alternative anchor techniques like this on the ground before you ever have to use them for real. At rest, the anchor sees the weight of your load. how to swing. May 15, 2025 · So don't settle for that in a rappel anchor. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. This technique is a bit less common, and it has a few pros and cons, see below. Aug 4, 2021 · The photo shows a newer Metolius 11 mm Dyneema sling, paired with an Edelrid Aramid cord sling (one of my favorites for anchor building. Here are a few ways to fine-tune the connection between the anchors so you can get a decent load distribution. Pass the rope around the tree or rock horn, and tie an overhand knot (BHK) in both rope strands. Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. in some instances be a single large glue in bolt, which is the only anchor at the anchor point. See some examples, and lear May 1, 2018 · At the theoretical level, with a simple system like a 2:1 or 3:1, you're never going to apply more load on the anchor then the weight of your load. Jul 3, 2012 · In the mountains or on long rock routes, anchor efficiency can be the difference between a comfortable finish and a forced bivouac. com Series anchor with the rope Comment with the phrase “ROPE-SERIES” and I'll send you a DM with a link to my detailed article on this. (Pretty sure these came out just as I write this, late November 2022. ) Topics include: footwork. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. Nov 20, 2022 · Series anchor with the rope . No pickets needed. The anchor belay method, however, is the more recommendable belay method in routes with a more alpine character, i. Feb 8, 2024 · The anchor belay method, however, is the more recommendable belay method in routes with a more alpine character, i. When we got to one rat’s nest of several ancient but serviceable slings around a boulder, my partner looked at it with a critical eye and said, “Hey, let’s take a sec to beef up this anchor. It involved a beginning climber who was cleaning an anchor hook anchor, that had a locking carabiner added to minimize wear on the hooks. ” How are you going to make this redundant? Answer is, you probably can't. Explore AlpineSavvy. However, with solid bolts or ice screws, it may be faster and more convenient to build what’s called a series anchor, where all the load goes to one component and the other is a backup. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Nov 11, 2018 · A series of rappel anchors in various states of disrepair were leading us steadily back to our camp. This secures you, and gives a conveni May 2, 2025 · In Anchor Building 101, you probably learned the importance of the angles between the “legs” of an anchor. The least skilled and/or heaviest person goes first. 1,917 likes · 18 talking about this. Curated instructional videos. Many of them are strikingly different than those used in many parts of the world. Oct 24, 2018 · Many climbers consider the cordelette a standard piece of gear, as it lets you quickly connect two or more points of protection into a redundant, non-extending, and fairly well distributed anchor. Using a cordelette to equalize an anchor is easy and strong, but it takes a lot of extra time to set up, and even longer to break down. There are nine videos in the series, most are about 10 minutes long. Aug 17, 2024 · (Note: one of Alex's regular partners told me that Alex typically belays with a Grigri and not a plaquette style device like shown in the photo, but the basic anchor set up is still the same. Typically made with a a 120 cm sling, with a double strand bowline on a bight, shown here. Nov 19, 2022 · What’s a “series” anchor? . There may be times when going more slowly and having increased friction is a good thing. Note that the belayer is not on the equalized portion of the anchor. The middle person makes an anchor: a single ice axe buried in a T slot. steep ice technique Dec 12, 2024 · A rebelay is simply adding an additional anchor(s) below the potential abrasion point. ) 6 days ago · The input force of 1 comes out the other side of the red pulley, remaining at 1, and then goes onto the anchor. May 27, 2023 · It doesn't matter if it goes through a 10% efficient pulley or 50% efficient carabiner, the force on the anchor is going to be the same. The general concept: The smaller / narrower the angle, the better load sharing between the legs. Important, stomp down the snow between the anchor and the crevasse. Dec 4, 2023 · Keep in mind that a typical crevasse rescue anchor will only need to hold less than the weight of the victim when they’re hanging. Sometimes this will be on the load, and other times it might be on the anchor. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. To give yourself enough slack to do this, take a large bight of lead rope, tie it to the same anchor bolt as your ledge, and attach yourself to this rope with a GriGri. ) Premium Art Setting up a top rope anchor for ice climbing? Bolts or trees may give the fastest and most secure option. If all you have is the ice, be aware that screws can melt out very quickly. A common old school anchor method was to place gear and simply connect ‘em all Alpine Savvy - The old school “series” anchor . " Say you need to set up a mechanical advantage system, and you only have one pulley. Now, before you start thinking this is a 20 year old photo from East Boondockistan, this video comes courtesy of the excellent (if awkwardly titled) “Safety Academy Lab Rock” video tutorial series, produced by the well-regarded German company Ortovox, and backed by Petzl and the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (in German, “VDBS Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. So good news, your anchor doesn’t need to be multi-directional or tremendously strong. Nov 15, 2020 · Do NOT use this technique on “open” anchor hardware, such as anchor (aka Mussy) hooks, carabiners, or a ram’s horn / pigtail. How To Build An Anchor With Two Slings And Three Pieces - 2:06. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Mar 29, 2019 · With the rope through the anchor, tie in to one end of the rope, attach to the other side of the rope with your Grigri, and lower yourself. This is one more good reason to carry some spare 6 mm cord. “ Feb 16, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices. Traditional anchor building teaches trying to “equalize” the load. This secondary anchor can be SOLID gear you place, or a bolt. ) Premium Article available Nov 25, 2022 · The old school series anchor . From the video: “( . It gives the rappeller more space to hold the brake strands, as well as reducing the force needed to slow/stop the rappel. Sep 1, 2024 · Sometimes at a busy anchor, you may have a rope on top of another one, and those two ropes need to trade places. ) Step into this “stirrup”. Is trying to “equalize” the load a mandatory principle for Jul 23, 2022 · A meat anchor is often used in canyoning, where you often encounter a wide variety of terrain, with much of it possibly down-climbable and relatively short by alpine climbing standards. How to Set Up a Top Rope Anchor on Two Bolts - 5:58. Guest post by Canadian ice climbing expert Sean Isaac @seanisaacguiding. Series anchor with the rope Comment with the phrase “ROPE-SERIES” and I'll send you a DM with a link to my detailed article on this. Tie a clove hitch onto the anchor. Mar 24, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Jun 7, 2024 · Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. Aug 1, 2022 · American big wall expert and product designer John Middendorf wrote an outstanding series of articles on climbing history in Europe and North America. Now, the weighted rope is on the rebelay, and not the primary anchor. with only few or questionable intermediate fixing points, traverses, confusing route courses or the possibility of far, uncontrolled falls. (The friction of the rope passing through the snow reduces the load on the anchor. Estimate how far you want to stand from the tree; in this case let's say it's 5 meters. ) Don’t worry about ring loading the bowline, it’s fine and it’s been tested. org/tech-tip-videosThis video was reviewed by 2 or mo Mar 2, 2025 · When you retreat / bail (and yes, it’s “when, and not “if”), be it a one pitch sport climb or a major alpine adventure, the objectives should be similar: Get to the ground in one piece. ) Premium Article available Dec 5, 2020 · The German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (VDBS) published a short PDF file of recommended anchor building practices. “ Aug 14, 2022 · My partner and I were at the trailhead, ready to hike in a couple of hours to a moderate five or six pitch moderate alpine rock route in the Sierra backcountry. I learned this trick from big wall expert Mark Hudon , thanks Mark! You may find yourself in a climbing situation where you need to transfer a BIG load from one anchor point to another. Tie a bight knot (a butterfly works great, because it's usually easy to untie after loading) and clip it to this rebelay point. Dec 20, 2022 · Canadian ice climbing expert Will Gadd and Black Diamond teamed up to make an excellent introductory video series about ice climbing techniques. For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: Aug 24, 2024 · This is part of a series of articles that cover methods to move a large load a short distance, typically to unweight an anchor. See them all at his website, bigwallgear. Here's another video from Karsten showing some ways to build your own anchor with your own gear, and then transfer to the anchor hooks when it's time to lower off for the last person. Take advantage of more free educational content from SIET, visit out website: http://expeditiontraining. If you find an anchor like this, you can back it up by simply tying another piece through the existing ring / quicklink. If you happen to have a pulley, run the sling through that to minimize friction. In autumn 2023, there was a fatal accident in Alabama. (A double loop bunny ears figure 8 works too. But for now let's assume the climber is free Nov 22, 2019 · Here’s a screen grab from a video, link below. For example . Dec 23, 2022 · Like any anchor, redundancy is important, so rappelling from two equalized V-threads might make sense in some situations. wgjwix zkhy flnrf poogfie pjjavq syn cxvnfu toobqqa myoo nnbjrobjw